Yes, concrete may be used but it still needs to be sealed to prevent lime leaching into the pond and negatively affecting the water chemistry. Clearpond Pondseal is ideal for this purpose and only comes in. Concrete moves over time and concrete ponds tend to crack and require regular maintenance. Pond liner is usually a better option.
Pond liners usually come only in black because black hides algae, helping your pond look healthy & clean. Black also gives a better background to show up the colours of your fish – except for the black ones!
Yes, watertight joining of liner is possible. It’s a great idea to do all joining on a flat surface, as your pond may not be so flat. Try joining your liner on the drive way and then move your liner into place. PVC liner can be joined using PVC liner glue and Proliner EPDM can be joined using Quick Primer and double sided tape.
Yes, but remember to take the weight of the water into consideration when looking at construction alternatives. Treated sleepers or bricks are popular choices and pond liner can be used on the inside to provide low maintenance water holding.
It depends on your individual circumstances and council regulations. You will need to check your local council requirements before making that decision.
Yes, it is better to protect your liner from damage caused by stones or tree roots. This can be done by sand but we recommend using pond underlay because it is easier to use and provides protection to vertical walls, where sand cannot.
Preparation for a waterfall to be built on top of liner should be made before laying pond underlay. A concrete slab, larger than the base of the waterfall should be laid, leveled & cured. This provides support to the weight of the materials used to construct the waterfall. When you do start building, take some liner off-cuts and place them under any rocks that are being placed directly onto the liner. This will provide extra layers of protection. Try dry stacking your rocks until above water level and then cement waterfall rocks into place as concrete and cement leach lime and other toxins into the water poisoning fish and plant life. If this is not practical then seal cement using Clearpond Pondshield.
The safest, easiest and most reliable way of getting leads and pipe into and out of a pond is with purpose build flange fittings such as the Oase Tradux. The Tradux enables you to pass hose or electrical cables through a pond wall below water level without cutting the plug. Whatever method used, you should follow all regulations regarding electrical power cables or if unsure, contact a certified electrician. The length of the cable of any products used for the pond such as pumps and lighting should not be altered. Please contact your supplier before cutting any plugs or cords.
After you have dug or built your pond base, use a piece of string or your garden hose to measure the width and length of the liner you require. Be sure to follow the pond contours and allow a little extra (250-500mm) around the sides to be used when creating your edge. It’s best to dig your hole before buying liner as things could change when you start excavating.
Yes, you will need to use pond underlay to protect liner from root damage. You also may wish to add a leaf skimmer to the filtration system to prevent the falling leaves breaking down within the pond, creating excess organic nutrients that will result in algal blooms.
No. Builder’s plastic is not fish friendly but more importantly it’s not UV stable which means that it will break down in the sun and cause major problems. It is not suitable for constructing ponds.
Aesthetically they can enhance the look of a creek or pond, biologically they add surface area for bacteria but they do increase maintenance. Rocks will trap debris and prevent it from travelling into your solids pump and on to your filter. This trapped organic material can provide nutrients and result in algal blooms. Organic matter can be reduced using pond vacuums or water treatments such as Clearpond Pondzyme. Using rocks comes down to personal preference but if you decide to use them then go for larger rocks rather than aquarium style pea gravel as larger rocks will enable better water flow and are easier to vacuum.
Ponds are generally constructed from a variety of different building material: PVC or EPDM liner, Concrete, Fiberglass and Plastic preformed ponds. There are advantages and disadvantages in using any of these items such as cost, availability and suitability to your own pond, so it is worthwhile talking to your local dealer to see which one is suited to your own personal requirements.
Never buy your liner before you have dug or built your pond base (this will prevent shortfalls or excess). You should also consider if you will need to join two pieces of liner, if so, you will need to purchase the relevant joining products.
When it comes to size, you are only limited by your imagination. The bigger the better as larger ponds are easier to stabilise and maintain. Shallow ponds heat up and can lead to algae problems; a minimum depth of 300mm is fine unless you plan on keeping koi. Koi prefer deeper ponds of around 1m. You should always check with your local council to see if there are any regulations governing the size or depth of your pond.
Most backyard ponds can be constructed using PVC or Proliner EPDM. If you intend to place large or heavy objects on top of liner, or are planning a very large pond then the thicker Proliner Series 100 liner may be required. Remember the thicker the liner the more expensive and heavier it is. Proliner Series 70 is our most popular liner because it offers the flexibility of a rubber liner while not being as heavy as thicker liners. This mix of flexibility and weight is perfect for the average back yard pond.
If your pond is to have water lilies, Irises and other aquatic and semi-aquatic plants in it, it is wise to choose a place where the pond will receive 6-8 hours of full sun per day. Getting started: before the first sod of earth has been turned, contact your local town or shire council to find out if there are any restrictions in setting up a pond such as, if fencing is required. When putting in a pond it is best not to place it under or near large trees, it is also wise not to place a pond under deciduous or poisonous plants or trees, as leaf litter, toxins can all kill fish & plants and roots can puncture a liner or crack concrete.
Sticks and roots can still penetrate sand but will be held up by the fibrous weave of a fleece. It is also easier to work up pond walls with an underlay, while sand will not hold to steep walls.